Thursday, June 2, 2016

Thursday, 6/2

We realized there was one more thing we wanted to see before leaving for Budapest - the one synagogue in Vienna that hadn't been destroyed on Kristallnacht. It was right near our apartment, so we had our breakfast and walked over to it.

Here's the story. It was built in 1823-24, right after a law was passed that prohibited building anything that looked like a synagogue on a public street. Here it is. As you can see, it's pretty subtle, and I suspect it was even more so in 1938.
Here's the head-on view.

So on November 9, 1938 - Kristallnacht - the Nazis were thwarted in their effort to destroy it because they couldn't set fire to it without burning the apartments adjacent to it. So this is the only survivor. Over ninety were destroyed. This synagogue alone remains. Boruch Hashem.

Then we gathered our things, and went to the train station. We got there a little early, and the train was ten minutes late, which sounds just fine, right? Well, we dang near missed the train because they decided to double up on our train's platform. The train where we were waiting to board was the one to the airport, and ours, the one to Budapest, was farther down the track. This was explained over a loudspeaker once, and in very rapid German. Naturally, we got on the wrong train. By the time we figured it out, we had to sprint with our stuff!

 The ride was uneventful, and we got into Budapest in the mid-afternoon. We purchased a week-long pass for the metro and the tram, figured out the system, and got ourselves to our hotel. We'll be staying at the Marriott, right on the river. Here's a shot from our room of the beautiful blue Danube.
I agree with you - it's GREEN! Here's another picture from our room.
We went out to take a walk around Pest. As we passed a gallery, we saw there was a performance occurring inside. Then a lady opened the door and invited us in. There weren't any chairs available, and she was pointing upstairs, so we went. We felt just a bit trapped. The performer rattled on in Hungarian, telling stories that everyone else found funny! Finally, he played a song, after which we slipped out.
We found the church of Saint Stephen.
Looks like they're setting up for a Grateful Dead concert, or something. True story - this church houses what the guidebooks agree is the "most important relic in Hungary."  It is the actual mummified right hand of St. Stephan! They call it "Dexter." 

No, I don't know why they have it. No, I don't know where the left hand is. I know they have it displayed, and you can file past and pay your respects. And if you'd like to gawk, you put some money in the slot, and it turns the lights on for a few seconds.

Then we found a restaurant; we were ready for dinner by candlelight: 

Rebecca's chicken:
My stuffed cabbage:
Then back to our hotel. Here are some views at night.
Time for bed!











 

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