First some numbers. In the early 20th Century, the population of Budapest was two million, of which fully one out of every four was Jewish! Five hundred thousand Jews. The city was jokingly called Jewdapest.
Now a little history. In WWI, Hungary was on the losing side, and lost two thirds of its territory. As Europe was bracing itself for WWII, and choosing sides, Hungary wanted the lost territory back. Their alliance with Nazi Germany was made with that end in mind. From the early days of the war, it looked like a bad choice, but they were stuck.
The Hungarian regime was willing to comply with Germany's anti-Semitic laws, but drew the line at deporting their Jews to the death camps. Because Hungary was not an enemy, Germany did not invade or occupy it. So at first, Hungarian Jews were forced into crowded ghettos, and subjected to dehumanizing treatment, but not murdered.
But by 1944, their patience with Hungary exhausted, Germany demanded that the Hungarian Jews be exterminated, as part of the final solution. The Nazis forced a regime change, and the new Hungarian Nazis, the Arrow Cross, set about making up for lost time.
They began by shipping Jews out in freight trains, but there simply weren't enough trains. So the Arrow Cross set about exterminating the Jews right in Hungary. They lined Jews up by the Danube and shot them. And then, to save bullets, they shackled Jews together at the banks of the river, shot one or two, and let the others drown, pulled down by the weight of those who were slain. The Danube was said to have run red.
Today, the population of Budapest is two million. Roughly one hundred thousand are Jewish.
Here's the Great Synagogue, seen from the back. The front is the two onion domes on towers.
We started our tour with the Rumbach Synagogue, soon to be restored.
Looking up.
An example of "stumble stones," found all over the city, commemorating the murder of innocents.
The monument to a Swiss diplomat, Lutz, credited with saving the lives of sixty-two thousand Jews by extending diplomatic sovereignty to numerous safe houses, allowing Jews in, with asylum, and then issuing safe passage out. In the monument, he is depicted throwing a woman a lifeline.
Our guide, Reuben, was legally blind in both eyes, and had a volunteer guide to lead him. He assured us that the buildings in Budapest don't move around, and if he points to something, it's usually there. Born in Brooklyn, he spoke Yiddish, English, German, French, Hungarian, Spanish, Hebrew, and Arabic. He told us he would be giving the tour in Brooklynese.
Here's the inside of the Great Synagogue. It is a 19th century edifice, built to show everybody that Jews can build a cathedral as well as Catholics can. The Nazis used it as a barn for horses. It was returned to use as a synagogue under the Soviets. When the Soviets were toppled, Bernie Schwartz, better known by his screen name, Tony Curtis, and his daughter, Jamie Lee Curtis, saw to the complete restoration. It is the second largest synagogue in the world, and contains eclectic elements of Reform, Conservative, and Orthodox.
Bimah up front.
Built-in organ.
Simultaneous translation into Yiddish from this pulpit, and into Hungarian from a similar pulpit on the other side.
Kneelers. Totally useless in a Jewish service, they were put in just to compete in the imaginary cathedral olympics.
Separate seating. Men downstairs, women upstairs.
Outside, we saw the cemetery.
Here is the "Tree of Life" Monument to all those who perished.
Look closely - their names are commemorated.
As research is carried out, more names are learned, and added.
We walked back to our hotel, and stayed in with a movie and room service
We ate across the street, and then hopped on a metro to take us to Buda, on the other side on the Danube.
Buda, on the west, is hilly; Pest, on the east, is flat. In WWII, as the Soviet Army advanced toward the city from the east, the Nazis decided that the Danube would be the place to stop them. In the hills of Buda, there are naturally-occurring caves. And the Nazis decided to build an underground hospital, strong enough to withstand bombing, in the caves. After WWII, the Soviets thought the hospital should be hardened to withstand nuclear attack.
We got to visit and take a tour.
Unfortunately, they were insistent that no photos be taken. Actually, it's just what you would imagine. No windows, of course. And everything is cramped for space. Narrow hallways, small operating rooms, and patients in dormitories. But, it is a hospital.
It was used extensively in WWII, but not in the Cold War period. It was used briefly, during the 1956 revolution, quickly squelched by the Soviets.
They sell authentic surplus supplies in the gift shop. Soviet gas masks, for example.
Time for coffee and pastry from an shop that was founded in 1827.
Not original.
Original.
Everything was so good, we scarfed it down. With but one bite left, I realized that I should have taken a picture. This was the finest Esterhazy torte I've ever had!
Time to explore around the castle. Here's St. Stephen with Dexter. Remember Dexter? No, it's not his horse. Dexter is his right hand. And in this statue, you can see he's intact.
Views of Pest. Our hotel is the big black one on the right.
Parliament.
Margarite Island.
Strangers take a selfie.
Fancy roof.
Unusual car makes an unusual living.
Unusual statue. You provide the caption. We've written a few.
Funicular descent.
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