Wednesday, 6/8

We had a nice leisurely morning. We packed first, then had a nice breakfast. At 11, we checked out, and went to the airport. Here's something you don't see at Sea-Tac.

We got to our London hotel efficiently despite traveling in the thick of rush hour. Leicester Square is the theater district in London, and that's where we had our dinner. Then we walked around a bit, looking for the place we stayed when we visited 25 years ago. We found it! Check it out - it's the place Johann Strauss stayed when he visited in 1838. Anyway, it was a kick to find it.

Then we went to theater.

That is one funny show. About as irreverent as it gets, too. It's the writers of South Park taking on the Mormon Church. We had a fine time.

As we prepare to head home, I thought I'd  post a few reflections. Without doubt, we enjoyed our time in each of the cities. Paris is our old friend. When we visit, it almost feels like home. Prague, Vienna, and Budapest were new to us.

Rebecca and I really enjoyed Vienna. More than we expected to, and almost to the point of feeling guilty, because of the egregious anti-Semitism. Nonetheless, there was a lot to like, including the air of self-confidence. We were profoundly impressed by Gerhard, the founder and head of the Third Man Museum. Gerhard is a mensch. One funny thing about Vienna is that they seem to have adopted an official marketing stategy involving Mozart. His picture is everywhere. And Mozart Chocolate is for sale everywhere. 

Prague was a bit like an overgrown village. Lots of small, crooked cobblestone streets, and crowds that were at times a bit overwhelming. Also, they drink beer like water. If you do too, Prague may be a step closer to heaven. But if you don't drink beer, well, you can easily get the feeling that you are out of step, or out of your element. Their pride in the great composers Dvorak and Smetana is obvious, although it isn't an actual marketing strategy like Mozart and Vienna.

Budapest has energy, and East-meets-West exoticism. It also has a difficult history, which clouds the national ethos. I'd say there is a touch of melancholia. Franz Liszt is the local hero whose image and music shows up quite often. The baths sure we're fun.

If you're thinking of doing this sort of trip, here are two little suggestions. First, take the time to figure out how to use the local mass transportation system. Metros, trams, buses, and walking, rather than cabs. It helped us to come in contact with locals, and to imagine ourselves as locals, which is part of the fun of visiting new places.  Second, learn a few of the basic words and phrases in the local language. It's easier to make a personal connection.  

Thanks for reading the blog. I hope you enjoyed it. Rebecca and I will be home tomorrow, and I hope we will get to visit with you very soon.  Be well!

Tuesday, 6/7

This morning, we went to the National Museum.

It was built in the 1840's. At that time, Franz Liszt was already established as Hungary's greatest composer, pianist, and conductor. He played a prominent part in establishing the museum. He conducted at the opening, and donated many important items. But the most amazing donation of his came later; it was Beethoven's piano.

I'm sure you are wondering what Liszt was doing with Beethoven's piano. It seems that when Beethoven passed away, in 1827, it took a few years to sort out and settle his estate. It wasn't until the 1840's that his belongings were auctioned off. A wealthy Viennese gallery owner placed the winning bid on the piano, and he promptly gave it to Liszt, thinking that he was the most worthy to have it. Liszt placed it in his Weimar home, and cherished it. Ten years later, he turned it over to the Hungarian National Museum.

The piano is a magnificent Broadwood, handmade by the finest piano maker of the day, specifically for Beethoven. It is kept in perfect shape, and is played regularly by world famous pianists. And recordings are available to be heard in the room in which it is exhibited. 

They also had other old items that were really cool. For example, Magyar stirrups from a zillion years ago (but there were too many guards around to take a picture). How about these old watches from the 14th century?!

And I love the way this suit of mail appears to have a built-in yarmulke.

When the Soviets took a hike, their statuary was much less appreciated. One giant likeness of Stalin was pulled down and cut into pieces. The two biggest chunks are on display. If you've been following the thread about Dexter, you know - St. Stephen's right hand, you'll appreciate the irony. Sure enough, the biggest piece is Stalin's right hand. The second largest, if you're curious, is his left ear, and they have that too.

Next, we went to the largest market in Budapest. It was modernized in 1849, again in 1896, and once more in 1996.

Seen from this angle, you can see it is really deep, man (subtle humor).

You can see from these pictures that they're still trying to get the traffic control fine-tuned.

Inside, it's pretty reminiscent of the Pike Place Market, except more spacious.

We found some really cute souvenirs for our granddaughters, Naomi and Rosie. 

We also found lunch. Rebecca went with traditional langos, a garlicky fry bread, heaped with vegetables and cheese, or other stuff. I went to a different booth, opting for chili con carne and a Greek salad. Unfortunately, the person who got it for me had a bad cold, and she sneezed enough around my food, and on my change, that I just threw it everything into the trash. Call me over-cautious, if you like, but that's what I did. Rebecca was so nice, she shared her langos with me.

Then we went down in the metro to go get tickets for an evening boat ride. In the train station we had one of those East-meets-West moments. Here's a guy playing the ancient Magyar instrument, the cimbalom (it's like a hammer dulcimer). The exotic sound echoes all over the train station, making a strong statement of national heritage. What's he playing? Sinatra's "I Did It My Way."

Not Beethoven's piano.

After some down time at our hotel, we went out for dinner at a nice place up by the castle, and a return trip to our favorite dessert and coffee place - Ruszwurm. This time I remembered to take a picture of the Esterhazy cake before eating it all. Here it is, missing only one bite.

Then it was time for our boat ride on the Danube. Doesn't the parliament look good?

Time for bed. Tomorrow we go to London.

Monday, 6/6 (Happy Birthday, Naomi!)

We got up quite early to make our 8:30 tour of Parliament. Here's the building from across the Danube.

Here's the tour getting organized.

Tastefull treatment of the stairs, no?

Look down the hall. That's the authentic Crown Jewels, and this is the closest you can photograph them.

Here's the room where the legislators meet the media.

There are statues depicting all walks of life in Hungary.

There's a lovely carpet, and they're quite proud of it.

Here's where the legislators meet and vote.

Here's the ceiling.

Out in the hall, they have a special contraption where a legislator can park his cigar when he goes in to vote.

Here's the view out the hall window.

Here's how you leave, when the tour is over.

From outside, the building looks nice and sturdy.

We got hungry, and found a place for breakfast right nearby.

Here was the view, looking back to the parliament building.

I don't think you'd get this close to the Capitol building in the U.S.

We walked out to Margaritas Island, where we rented a two-person bike. I figured out how to adjust the seats.

It is seems that sometimes the objects just beg for anthropomorphization. Mr. Water fountain politely refilled our bottles.

Lovely shade trees.

Musical fountain.

We spent the rest of the afternoon at the baths.

We took a bus off the island. Once in our neighborhood, we walked back toward our hotel along the Danube. 

We stopped at one of the most evocative memorials I have ever seen. It is in remembrance of those Hungarian Jews slaughtered at the side of the Danube. The Nazis, and the Arrow Cross, typically stole the belongings of the people they were about to murder. Before shooting, they would have their victims step out of their shoes. 

This was of course not the only site of the mass killings, but it was one.

It was apparently common that the members of the Arrow Cross would be murdering people with whom they were acquainted. Men, women, and children, too. And it was in the middle of the city! 

We walked to a restaurant for dinner. Along the way, we encountered some trompe l'oeil, literally "trick of the eye."

I had chicken paprikosh, and Rebecca had cholent with duck.

I liked the place.

On the way back to our hotel, we went past the Great Synagogue. I had forgotten to take a good picture of it the other day. Remember - I took it from the back? Anyway, here are a couple from the front.

And with the lights on.

Then we were tired, and went back to our hotel room.

Sunday, 6/5

This morning, we went to take the tour of the Jewish Quarter. 

First some numbers.  In the early 20th Century, the population of Budapest was two million, of which fully one out of every four was Jewish! Five hundred thousand Jews. The city was jokingly called Jewdapest.

Now a little history. In WWI, Hungary was on the losing side, and lost two thirds of its territory. As Europe was bracing itself for WWII, and choosing sides, Hungary wanted the lost territory back.  Their alliance with Nazi Germany was made with that end in mind. From the early days of the war, it looked like a bad choice, but they were stuck. 

The Hungarian regime was willing to comply with Germany's anti-Semitic laws, but drew the line at deporting their Jews to the death camps. Because Hungary was not an enemy, Germany did not invade or occupy it. So at first, Hungarian Jews were forced into crowded ghettos, and subjected to dehumanizing treatment, but not murdered. 

But by 1944, their patience with Hungary exhausted, Germany demanded that the Hungarian Jews be exterminated, as part of the final solution. The Nazis forced a regime change, and the new Hungarian Nazis, the Arrow Cross, set about making up for lost time. 

They began by shipping Jews out in freight trains, but there simply weren't enough trains. So the Arrow Cross set about exterminating the Jews right in Hungary. They lined Jews up by the Danube and shot them. And then, to save bullets, they shackled Jews together at the banks of the river, shot one or two, and let the others drown, pulled down by the weight of those who were slain. The Danube was said to have run red.

Today, the population of Budapest is two million. Roughly one hundred thousand are Jewish.

Here's the Great Synagogue, seen from the back. The front is the two onion domes on towers.

We started our tour with the Rumbach Synagogue, soon to be restored.

Looking up.

An example of "stumble stones," found all over the city, commemorating the murder of innocents.

The monument to a Swiss diplomat, Lutz, credited with saving the lives of sixty-two thousand Jews by extending diplomatic sovereignty to numerous safe houses, allowing Jews in, with asylum, and then issuing safe passage out. In the monument, he is depicted throwing a woman a lifeline.

Our guide, Reuben, was legally blind in both eyes, and had a volunteer guide to lead him. He assured us that the buildings in Budapest don't move around, and if he points to something, it's usually there. Born in Brooklyn, he spoke Yiddish, English, German, French, Hungarian, Spanish, Hebrew, and Arabic. He told us he would be giving the tour in Brooklynese.

Here's the inside of the Great Synagogue. It is a 19th century edifice, built to show everybody that Jews can build a cathedral as well as Catholics can. The Nazis used it as a barn for horses. It was returned to use as a synagogue under the Soviets. When the Soviets were toppled, Bernie Schwartz, better known by his screen name, Tony Curtis, and his daughter, Jamie Lee Curtis, saw to the complete restoration. It is the second largest synagogue in the world, and contains eclectic elements of Reform, Conservative, and Orthodox.

Bimah up front.

Built-in organ.

Simultaneous translation into Yiddish from this pulpit, and into Hungarian from a similar pulpit on the other side.

Kneelers. Totally useless in a Jewish service, they were put in just to compete in the imaginary cathedral olympics.

Separate seating. Men downstairs, women upstairs. 

Outside, we saw the cemetery.

Here is the "Tree of Life" Monument to all those who perished.

Look closely - their names are commemorated. 

As research is carried out, more names are learned, and added.

We ate across the street, and then hopped on a metro to take us to Buda, on the other side on the Danube. 

Buda, on the west, is hilly; Pest, on the east, is flat. In WWII, as the Soviet Army advanced toward the city from the east, the Nazis decided that the Danube would be the place to stop them. In the hills of Buda, there are naturally-occurring caves. And the Nazis decided to build an underground hospital, strong enough to withstand bombing, in the caves. After WWII, the Soviets thought the hospital should be hardened to withstand nuclear attack.

We got to visit and take a tour.

Unfortunately, they were insistent that no photos be taken. Actually, it's just what you would imagine.  No windows, of course. And everything is cramped for space. Narrow hallways, small operating rooms, and patients in dormitories. But, it is a hospital.

It was used extensively in WWII, but not in the Cold War period. It was used briefly, during the 1956 revolution, quickly squelched by the Soviets.

They sell authentic surplus supplies in the gift shop. Soviet gas masks, for example.

Time for coffee and pastry from an shop that was founded in 1827.

Not original.

Original.

Everything was so good, we scarfed it down. With but one bite left, I realized that I should have taken a picture. This was the finest Esterhazy torte I've ever had!

Time to explore around the castle. Here's St. Stephen with Dexter. Remember Dexter? No, it's not his horse. Dexter is his right hand. And in this statue, you can see he's intact.

Views of Pest. Our hotel is the big black one on the right.

Parliament.

Margarite Island.

Strangers take a selfie.

Fancy roof.

Unusual car makes an unusual living.

Unusual statue. You provide the caption. We've written a few.

Funicular descent.

We walked back to our hotel, and stayed in with a movie and room service